Listening to the sounds of churchbells ringing and watching
as little Italian ladies hang their clothes out to dry on their
windowsills…seeing elderly Italian men congregate outside cafes or walk down
cobblestone alleyways leisurely with their hands clasped behind their backs…we
smile proudly at them as they admire our Camille and may even stop to pinch her
chubby little cheek. We love taking part in these Italian ways of living and
savor the last few weeks we have left to enjoy them. In light of the fact that
we will be leaving so very soon, 27 days from today to be exact, I have
convinced my husband to shed his Saturday couch potato ways and explore
something new with me every weekend. Whether it be by going to a town we have
already visited and finding something “new” to enjoy or by going to a new
place, there are countless things we have yet to experience here.
We began a few weeks ago while my mom, aunt, and uncle were visiting.
The base was offering a tour to the town of Taurasi in the province of
Avellino. A winery tour, lunch, and transportation were included at the cost of
$80 per person. I felt that it was a bit overpriced considering that we could
drive ourselves to Taurasi so we decided to set off on our own adventure. Having
no idea as to which winery we could visit or where we could have lunch, we were
determined to just wing it. I might add that it is winter and considering the
much of Italy ironically shuts down (apparently, people decide to take a three
month vacation in the off season) not to mention the fact that we went on a
Sunday, the odds were not in our favor. The drive was incredibly scenic as we
drove through hill towns to reach Taurasi. It truly felt as though we were in
Tuscany. We joked about the fact that although we passed countless houses and
farms, not a person was to be seen anywhere. We drove by a winery that looked
quite large and decided to stop and see if it was open. Unfortunately, after
ringing the bell several times and even calling the number on the advertisement
in front (hoping I could communicate in my broken Italian) we realized it was
closed and needed to move on. We drove onwards and stumbled upon a tiny Italian
winery. To this day I have no idea as to what it was even called! There was almost
no signage and it was obviously a family run business. We walked into a small
room with several wine barrels and silver tanks. The woman spoke to me in rapid
Italian and I tried to make out what I could and translate for the group. Her
brother was quite the joker and told me about how he has three daughters, a
wife, and a mother in law he lives with which drives him to work at the winery,
in other words, drives him to drink. We sampled both their table wine and
typical, more expensive aged aglianico wine which is indicative of the region.
We’ve learned that the wines are aged for a minimum of three years, one of
which are actually in the wood barrels. I was impressed to learn that I am a
huge fan of Taurasi’s (these days I’m not much of a red drinker). After our
brief “wine tasting” we stumbled upon yet another gem, the restaurant
“Ristorante da Pino”. Again considering that so much appeared to be closed in
the town , we expected to have trouble finding a good restaurant. Comically
enough, we were the only ones lunching in this restaurant and were pleasantly
surprised to learn that our hostess, waitress, and co-owner of the restaurant
who was basically a one woman show had previously lived in Australia for 13
years and was fluent in English. She was extremely charming and knowledgeable,
teaching us about the wines and food of Taurasi. Not to mention, at 22 euro a
person for wine, antipasti, first course, main course, dessert, and coffee, it
was a steal. We went home that day with our bellies full and two new bottles of
wine at 14 euro a pop. $80 a person for a day of wine tasting and lunch?! We’ll
do it ourselves, thank you very much!
Last weekend we went to Rome, Orvieto, and Frascati for a
much needed romantic weekend without Camille for the first time to celebrate
our three year anniversary. I’m still in awe that these three years have flown
by! More to come on that trip in another entry.
I had heard of a cute town in a neighboring region to where
we live from my friend Kelly. The town, Caiazzo in the province of Caserta,
offered us a short getaway this morning. Once again we felt as though we were
miles and miles away from the noisy streets of Napoli as we drove through the
green countryside, passing vineyards, farms, and orchards. We approached the
sleepy town of Caiazzo and parked in a lot with beautiful views of the region.
In the distance, snow capped mountains loomed above us and the sights were
breathtaking. Quite honestly, I cannot begin to count how many breathtaking
views we’ve seen since we arrived in Europe three years ago!
There is not
much to do in Caiazzo. No castles, museums, or famous duomos. It is simply a
locals’ town, yet it is beautiful, old, and offer’s gorgeous views. Italian
living at it’s best. An ancient olive press sits at the center of the town,
surrounded by small cafes and old Italian men having their daily morning chat. We
had a cappuccino in one of the cafes and meandered through the town. I found it
charming that these signs served as the signage for the majority of shops and
services on the main road.
I watched as the townspeople greeted us and each
other with “Buon giornos” left and right but found it charming, yet again, that
they all seemed to know each other. Such is the beauty of an Italian town.
Quiet does not exist even in the quietest of areas as anywhere where an Italian
woman is present is a place where chatter will inevitably be heard!
Camille greeted everyone we approached with either a “hi” or a “tow-tow”
(ciao, ciao). I love that children do not discriminate! J We stopped at a pasticceria
(Italian bakeries and also Ben’s favorite places to be in) and came across a
pastry called a Chiaccere. I had never seen one before but they are essentially
Italian versions of churros. Camille enjoyed hers while Ben enjoyed something
yummy and blueberry filled. I just took pictures and snuck pieces of Camille’s
while she wasn’t looking.
On our way home we passed Umbrella Pine trees, my absolute favorite
trees here. They are ridiculously tall and beautiful. Almost reminding me of a
tall, elegant old Italian lady. I will miss seeing them line the freeways as I
navigate my way through towns and dodge crazy drivers left and right.
Tomorrow we join our good friends for their farewell at an
Agriturismo and are really looking forward to the huge Italian family style
lunch with so many of our friends and the “family” we’ve formed here.
In a few short months Ben can go back to his lazy Saturdays.
For now, we plan to live each weekend to the fullest and experience all that la
dolce vita has to offer to us! As for now, we are off to collect wine for our
“wine shipment” to be collected on Monday. A little remnant of “La Dolce Vita”
to appreciate when we have returned to the United States for good.
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| 79 bottles and counting! |
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